Breadboard 5V_3V3_DCDC power supply

In order to facilitate HXD people to use the breadboard to develop some interesting things, I created and open sourced this gadget. I believe it can provide you with a little convenience when living at home, studying and working, traveling, and tasting delicious food.
 
DCDC uses the SY8303 step-down solution, outputting 5V=3A and 3.3V=3A each.
The inductor can also be semi-shielded or open in the same package size. The copper underneath has been hollowed out. You can use whatever you want. However, it is recommended to use some shielding to help reduce ripple.
Provides one DC-5520, one XT30, and one USB Type-C as power input. The voltage range of all power inputs is 4.5V~40BV (when the input voltage is lower than 5.5V, the 5V output cannot work properly, it is recommended that the input voltage is higher than 5.5V)
The DC port can generally be adapted to your notebook power adapter, but I don’t Knowing whether it will damage your adapter, it is recommended to discuss it with your laptop in advance.
XT30 can be connected to model aircraft batteries, but the positive and negative poles of some batteries may be reversed. Please pay attention to protection before connecting (you can wear HOMO glasses and secretly prepare a fire extinguisher).
Use Type-C for power supply and try to connect PD18W or above. The deception scheme of the power adapter (or one that can output more than 9V) is that the CH224K
cannot be connected to multiple inputs at the same time. Although a low-voltage drop diode is added after the three input interfaces to prevent series current backflow from damaging the device when mistakenly connected (Low-voltage drop Schott Base diode, withstand voltage 40V) But if you want to save a piece of BOM and don’t use a diode, it will BOOM.
The input capacitor uses 4 electrolytic capacitors in 2 parallel and 2 series (for compatibility with HXDs who may not have capacitors with a voltage above 40V on hand, the voltage requirement can be reduced to above 20V after connecting in series. If there is a capacitor with a voltage above 40V, you can connect a capacitor. The last piece of tin is grounded to avoid wasting capacity) Please carefully calculate the withstand voltage of the capacitor, because if it is a tantalum capacitor, it can prevent your colleagues from calling 120 for you.
The output copper foil solder resist has a window. It is recommended to pile up a little tin. It can also be used as a soldering point or a place for holding alligator clips (but I don’t like clips).
You can use long pin headers for the output pins and put the plastic limit blocks on them. After pushing to the middle and soldering (pay attention to safety when pushing), the lower pins can be inserted into the breadboard, and the upper pins can be connected using Dupont wires.
Although, you must be careful not to short-circuit the pin header. If the output voltage and GND pin headers are too close, magic smoke will be released accidentally.
 
There are two PCBs. It is only recommended to use the V2 one for proofing. Some markings have been made, so don’t make a mistake.
The thickness of the board doesn't matter, just don't make it too thin.
I don't like to add silk screen to components, and since I don't have many originals, I removed a lot of silk screen that affected the look and feel.
The two switches on the board control the enable of 5V and 3V3. If you don't want to solder the switch, please connect a wire to a high or low level. Do not leave it floating.
It is recommended that HXD with a certain circuit foundation be reproduced or modified. The published version has been verified by me, and I am not responsible for any consequences.
 
3D preview:
After soldering, as you can see now, there are some parts of the circuit that you don’t need to solder if you don’t want to use them. I used Dupont wire to short-circuit the two switches directly. You don’t need to solder the switch, but don’t leave it floating:
This is the V1 version, and there are some flaws in the design. , only as a demonstration for plugging into a breadboard, the latest one-board PCB has many improvements.
I didn’t make a new version mainly because I was lazy.
 
The text is not easy to describe. The picture below shows the long row of pin welding effects. Pay attention to safety when pushing the black plastic in the middle.
 
 
 
There should be more to mention when I think of them, but I have forgotten them at the moment. I will add them to the description when I remember them. If you have any questions, please leave a message.
There should be more to mention when I think of them, but I have forgotten them at the moment. I will add them to the description when I remember them. If you have any questions you want to ask, you can leave a message.
There should be more to mention when I think of them, but I have forgotten them at the moment. I will add them to the description when I remember them. If you have any questions that I don’t know what you want to ask, you can leave a message.