MR-J2S-20B is a 200W driver with a white shell and looks very beautiful.
I disassembled a machine with a problem. When it was powered on, it reported an E9 error. According to the error code, there should be a problem with the circuit of the input voltage detection part. This problem is relatively simple. According to other people's experience, it can be solved by replacing an optocoupler. Today I will use my skills to bring this machine back to life.
There are 4 groups of connectors on the front, including 2 bus ports, 1 communication port and 1 encoder port. There is a 2-digit digital tube on the top to display status and error information, and a dip switch on the right to set the communication address.
This machine is relatively easy to disassemble. You can remove it by unscrewing a screw and prying the outer shell.
There is a piece of white glue on the middle part of the top. I'm not sure whether it was applied there during maintenance or during production.
The pin on the other side of the white glue has a white tube covering it.
After removing the white glue, it was found that the soldering pad had no signs of having been moved. Combined with the white tube, it might be due to considerations such as creepage distance.
There are two Mitsubishi chips on the back, which should be the main controller of this servo.
There is a large heat sink on the back that is integrated with part of the outer shell, which can conduct heat properly by fixing it with a bracket.
On the right is the structure of the power input terminal.
This side of the display should be the switch power supply part.
After removing the heat sink, you can see the high-power device underneath, which should be the core of this servo.
There is a lot of thermal grease on it. If you accidentally get it on your hands, it is difficult to wash off, let alone clothes. Don't ask me how I know this.
After removing the silicone grease, we can see that the model of this power device is J2S-Q01A-D. It can be searched online, but no corresponding information can be downloaded.
The capacitors on this driver are basically from Nichicon, and Japanese manufacturers like Japanese components very much.
In order to facilitate maintenance, I need to remove the power input terminal first. Repairing precision equipment requires a lot of patience.
After removing the power terminal, you can easily remove the J2S-Q01A-D device. The pins are quite strong, so be very careful when removing it and do not use too much force.
Remove J2S-Q01A-D and you can see the components underneath it. There are many optocouplers here, but the damaged one is not underneath it. It doesn't matter where it is now.
The important thing is that now that the J2S-Q01A-D has been removed, I should disassemble it and see if anything inside needs repair. I carefully used a hammer and chisel to remove its plastic shell, and what was inside surprised me.
Its structure is very similar to the circuit in the I car ABS. A lot of DIEs are posted on a large board, and then it is directly bound to the PCB using a silver metal wire that should be aluminum wire but doesn't look like it.
The DIE inside looks very beautiful, there are 3-pin, 4-pin and 1-pin ones.
When enlarged, the 3-foot-long structure looks like a stadium, with the outer circle being its athletic track.
The number of this "stadium" is 819.
Things from Japan are like this; before you take them apart you want to understand their principles and how they work, but after taking them apart you find that you can't find information on many things, so in the end you just take them apart for fun and appreciate their workmanship.
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