[Tuya Smart] MOLUN Smart Temperature and Humidity Clock

Based on Tuya Smart's intelligent temperature and humidity clock, ESP-12F acts as the MCU, and Tuya WB3S is responsible for network communication. It is equipped with a SHT30 temperature and humidity meter and has a reserved DHT11 interface, which can be selected according to needs! Equipped with a 0.96" OLED screen, it can display weather, time and other information. It has local timing function and network time synchronization, and drives 60-bead WS2812B-Mini colorful lights to display time and create atmosphere! It can also be connected to an external WS2812B light strip, which has been pre-set. Keep the interface! USB port or pin header 5V power supply, use CH330N to program firmware for ESP-12F. Plan A does not need to solder the serial port chip, and use the ESP-01 firmware programmer to connect the external programming program!

It is recommended to use Plan B. The display can be integrated into the PCB board or an external module can be used! The 0.96' OLED screen can be purchased as a finished product or printed as a board. The one used here is packaged by the Jixiaoxin team. Thank you again! Double-sided patches are more troublesome to make! Let me share with you the pitfalls I have encountered and the experiences I gained: 1. I feel that there are many components such as resistors and capacitors on the back side, and I am worried that the SHT30 is so small that it is difficult to solder. Fortunately, I bought solder paste from a repairman before, so I borrowed an old-fashioned electric iron to apply solder paste, put the components in, and heated and soldered! The solder paste comes in bottles. It’s cold at home and the solder paste is hard. It’s difficult to pick up toothpicks and bread strands to apply to the circuit board. Later, I found that after heating the circuit board and pushing the solder paste toward the solder pad, the solder paste would be dotted. The difficulty is that the temperature is difficult to control and the flux is easy to evaporate, which may affect the welding effect. 2. The temperature of an electric iron is difficult to control and can be dangerous. It is recommended to use a heating platform if possible. In the end, I still burned the power socket. 3. There are 60 WS2812B lamp beads on the front, in a 35*35 package. It is much more difficult to solder than 50*50. The soldering iron tip is also thicker. It is still necessary to use both solder paste and solder wire. The lamp beads are all messed up during soldering and can only be far away. Watch! 4. It is still recommended to heat and solder the front lamp beads first, and manually solder the resistors and capacitors on the back. A heat gun should work too. Anyway, I soldered the reverse side completely, soldered half of the front lamp beads with a soldering iron, and soldered the remaining half by heating the solder paste again at the risk of the back components falling off. 5. In the end, a CH330N chip was damaged by secondary heating and welding. Fortunately, I had a CH340N in hand and replaced it. 6. At present, ESP-12F cannot enter the programming state. It is suspected that there is a problem with the module welding and needs to be repaired. 7. The screen and lights should be unable to write firmware and are not lit yet. We are taking the time to troubleshoot the problem》》》